Where to stay:
My home in Positano was the lovely La Casa de Peppe. Peppe, the owner of the hotel, grew up in the villa which has been in his family for generations. The staff is lovely, and will bend over backwards to accommodate you. As a solo traveler, I felt like I was in good hands (and good company) my whole time at the villa!
Arriving in Positano
Upon arrival there was so much to do and see! After settling into the hotel, I wandered around town, taking in the views at every turn. I enjoyed my first of many Aperol Sprits of the trip, and found myself an epic meal of spaghetti and clams.
First full day: a ferry trip to Sorrento
I arrived in Italy during a exceptionally strange bout of weather, so my original plans were thrown off a bit. I had planned a full-day boat tour along the coast & to Capri through Airbnb Experiences, but given the weather the trip was cancelled.
With a whole day in front of me, I decided to explore a bit more of the coast and opted for Sorrento based on a recommendation from the hotel staff – they said that it was a better pick for a rainy day than Capri or Ravello.
I decided to go by ferry – still craving that boat ride! So I walked down to the main beach & bought tickets – you can’t miss the stalls. The ferry first makes a stop in Capri, then heads over to Sorrento. The view from the ferry was one of my favorites from the trip – I may have even treated myself to a mini bottle of Prosecco for the ride (drinking before noon is acceptable on vacation, right?)
I found myself starving upon arrival in Sorrento, and wandered into the first flowery courtyard that I passed – turns out it was the Hotel Excelsior, which was like a serene pizza oasis in the middle of town. A pizza and a spritz, and I had plenty of fuel to explore Sorrento’s main drag and small, winding streets.
After a day of exploring, I was back to Positano (by a very pricey Taxi, because of course I missed the last ferry).
By Peppe’s recommendation, I checked out Ristorante Mediterraneo for dinner once I was back in Positano – and it was excellent. Their speciality is zucchini flower (recommend!). And you can’t go wrong with anything seafood related in this town. I finished up dinner with a sip of Lemoncello and called it a night!
Second full day: exploring Positano’s shops & beaches
The weather gods were not shining upon me this week in Positano. I had hoped to make a day trip to Capri, but the roaring seas meant that ferries were completely cancelled for the day. As a plan B, I decided to shop and spritz my way around town, taking in the views as I went.
My first stop would have been Le Sireneuse for lunch, but a) I didn’t have a reservation and b) it was still a bit early. But Hotel Ancora made a decent stand-in, with gorgeous views of the town and the ocean.
After lunch & some shopping (watch for cute linen outfits and beautiful ceramics), I made my way to Fornillo beach. Fornillo may be the smaller of the two beaches in Positano, but in my opinion it’s much more beautiful. I was told that on a warm day, it still gets pretty crowded but the crowd is decidedly more local than the main beach.
It was about 200 stairs back up to the hotel – you earn your pasta in this town! After a quick pre-dinner gelato, I returned back to La Casa di Peppe for my favorite meal in Positano – they invite a private chef in for dinner, and I had a truly epic eggplant parmigiana, follows by spaghetti and clams once again.
And with that, my few days in Positano were done! Another hotel-arranged transfer would bring me back to Naples, where I’d hop a train to Florence (via Rome). More to come!
Positano is beautiful, even in the rain. Stay at El Casa di Peppe, take in the vistas from land and sea, check out Fornillo beach, and eat all the seafood!